Got a sound pretty sure its a leak and pretty sure this is a valve reacting to a leak, but went from happening once in a while and stopping to happening constantly since I patched up some leaks near my 110 compressor. https://youtube.com/shorts/EB8pLkIchyE?s...0A6OHQQ_-K
This is the tank located in front of passenger side drive axle an i then move the camera into the passenger side wet bay...
I cannot tell if rhe sound is outside or inside the bay to be honest. And I think that this all feeds the toilet or slide door inside the coach. Anyway, I am all ears if anyone has ideas where to go next .. even after fixing the leaks by the compressor she still comes on ever couple hours.
Ron Davis
1994 Newell #365 (New Owner July 2025)
1996 Beaver Patriot (frame damaged)
1994 Tioga Class C (previous caretaker)
My teen son and I travel the U.S. fulltime for the last 5 years.
Summer in the Midwest, Winter in the South.
Intentionally Independent and helping others do the same.
(This post was last modified: 08-03-2025, 08:37 AM by Rixson.)
That’s pretty funny because I’ve always had that buzzing and this last week we were tracking some of that down. It’s pretty easy to figure out which is anytime the main air is higher than the brake tanks. I think what’s happening is it’s transferring air through that check valve, which tends to buzz. And, since air brakes constantly leak, that air purges by the check valve causing to buzz.
This evenIt will happen right after I’m running the engine and then dissipate after a while. HOWEVER, now that I’ve got my coach set up with shop air, that supply actually is set up to charge ALL the tanks, not just the AUX tank. I presume the principle is to save extra wear on the on-board compressor from constantly filling the leaky brake tanks. So, that is obviously held back with that check valve.
Steve & Janice Vance
2015 Newell #1524
Glendora, CA
(This post was last modified: 08-04-2025, 09:59 AM by CaptainGizmo.)
So with no real progress I turned off the 110v compressor for overnight. The 12v one tried to pick up slack . In the morning I flipped the 110 back on an now this Regulator located near the tank in the video is releasing air..like it is over pressurizing....so I turn dial till it stoppa evidently from 40 to 60 ... then as the compressor continues to run and gets over 60. It releases air again.... So now I bump it up to eighty..... Same result now I manually turned off the compressor again.
I'm fixing to believe that this regulator is bad.And needs replacing... is that accurate. Or is this a symptom of some other problem?
Ron Davis
1994 Newell #365 (New Owner July 2025)
1996 Beaver Patriot (frame damaged)
1994 Tioga Class C (previous caretaker)
My teen son and I travel the U.S. fulltime for the last 5 years.
Summer in the Midwest, Winter in the South.
Intentionally Independent and helping others do the same.
Can you hear the sound coming from the regulator? if so then its bad, I wouldn't turn it up past 60 psi this could have some bad effects on the toilet and doors, the slide seals have there own regulator so thats safe.
The sound in my video is coming from somewhere more in the center of the coach....
I bought a new regulator at Tractor Supply last night. We'll install it today.
Our coach has no slides and the inside air door doesn't work for other reasons and the toilet functions normally but yeah agree they regulated the pressure down at that point for a reason so I will set the new one at 50psi...
I started the engine last night. Let it air up the coach to full pressure. I then flipped on the 110V compressor switch so it would turn on when it needs to around 70 psi as people have suggested... I went to bed so I don't know how frequently it came on. But since I've been up, it has only been on once and was only on for about 5 minutes.
Also noted that I left it hwh in travel mode vs releveling the coach before shutting down the engine.
I'm just glad we're parked at home base and not out on the road trying to sort it out...
Ron Davis
1994 Newell #365 (New Owner July 2025)
1996 Beaver Patriot (frame damaged)
1994 Tioga Class C (previous caretaker)
My teen son and I travel the U.S. fulltime for the last 5 years.
Summer in the Midwest, Winter in the South.
Intentionally Independent and helping others do the same.
First set the well pump switch on the 12v pump 50 to 70 psig, then the well pump switch on the 120v compressor 70 tto 90. That way they won’t try to cross talk one another if both are on. The engine compressor should kick in at 90 and out at 125.
The potties and doors which are fed by the low pressure circuit use lower pressure, that is the purpose of the regulator.
The purpose of the check valve located on the TEE going into that small tank is to prevent the 12V compressor from trying to pressurize the entire air system. When you replace it pay close attention to the direction on the valve. The 120V and engine compressor feed the low pressure section of the air system but the 12v does not feed the general system.
The buzz is the check valve. The leaking regulator is either a bad regulator OR someone installed it backwards. Backwards meaning the inlet and outlet are reversed.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
95 Newell, 390 Ex caretaker
99 Newell, 512 Ex caretaker
07 Prevost Marathon, 1025
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home )
On 712 if I have a external compressor hooked up regulator set at 30 psi, and I start the engine when the pressure goes above 30 psi the regulator will vent
Got a sound pretty sure its a leak and pretty sure this is a valve reacting to a leak, but went from happening once in a while and stopping to happening constantly since I patched up some leaks near my 110 compressor. 
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