[[email protected]]

Sounds like you should have what you need. As Richard said, May want to replace the others, I did the same. There is one for each axle basically. The front one on my coach looked ok. 

So the other thing that when this happened made me ask why has this not happened to me before? Well I looked and my Wanderlodge being an 84 that bottom exhaust port is made out of metal not plastic, so that’s why it has not failed. I was going to look to see if the exhaust ports are available in metal for replacement so this will not be an issue again in 10 or 20 years.

[johnkosir]

How common is this problem on 20 year old coaches, are people changing these, or carrying a rebuild kit.

[Wanderman]

I will be carrying 2 rebuild kits and a spare complete unit. Just in case.

The access to the rear axle ones is impossible. The steel bolts corrode to the aluminum housing. They come out, but not without a fight. And the access to the, between the floor and the top of the valve case is tiny and surrounded by all sorts of lines.

4 hours to remove it.

You can, like Jeff said, remove the circlip from the exhaust vent and insert new parts to fix that type of leak without having to remove the entire unit. Unfortunately, I was not that lucky.

I am still stuck here. Parts arrived at 3PM and unit is in, but the airlines need to be reattached and it's end of day. So stuck in the lot again... did I mention I am running out of water?

Fun times.

Rick

Rick

[[email protected]]

How common is this problem on 20 year old coaches, are people changing these, or carrying a rebuild kit.

Probably depends on if you have the plastic exhaust or metal. I would say if you have plastic exhaust ports go ahead and pre-emptive replace them. Mine would be 28 years old, and my coach is a southern coach and has little to no corrosion etc under it but it was in a dry environment, so maybe that made them fail earlier? What I do know is that it will drain your air system quickly and put you on the side of the road. You still have air brakes thankfully but you will lose air in your airbags. On mine that is how I noticed, by the smell and sight of the rubber rubbing from one of my rear tires rubbing on the frame of the bus. The air light and buzzer did not come on, I need to investigate that a bit further.

[arcticdude]

Would someone mind posting part numbers? I’m not having any luck finding them.

Thanks.

[Richard]

https://newellgurus.com/printthread.php?tid=6018

[arcticdude]

Thank you!

[smagown]

I got stranded like this in Commerce, GA on a 4th of July, hot as it is now. Any Bendix R-14 will work or just the kit, I only needed the guts. I used a socket on an extension to push up and used circlip pliers and out it came. I was at the pumps when it aired down and wouldn't move, a nightmare compounded when I pulled to the Speedco shop in the back they said we don't work on RV's!

[[email protected]]

I got stranded like this in Commerce, GA on a 4th of July, hot as it is now. Any Bendix R-14 will work or just the kit, I only needed the guts. I used a socket on an extension to push up and used circlip pliers and out it came. I was at the pumps when it aired down and wouldn't move, a nightmare compounded when I pulled to the Speedco shop in the back they said we don't work on RV's!

To clarify Steve, the crack pressures are important on how the brake system operates. It can delay or cause the braking system not to work properly, so you really need to match the crack pressure. If you are just changing the exhaust port with parts from another R-14 valve, then it really does not matter. I would suspect the spring is what changes the crack pressure. Anyways, just wanted to make sure that someone does not get themselves into some braking issues with the incorrect relay valve.