01-21-2025, 09:56 PM
I am going to offer this out to you Valid 6 pack valve users. if you are interested, fine. if not thats fine too. newell switched to valid from hwh in 2004.
I ordered from Valid the 6 pack valve rebuild kit (6x1053). that was earlier 2024 and it was 55 dollars for a single valve plus 40 dollars shipping from canada. i dont know what it costs today. that was after i had helped a few valid newell folks work on their 6 packs and i saw that the guts were essentially the same.
on the hwh systems, the stem screws into a brass or aluminum body that then screws into the manifold. the valid setup has the stem (that the plunger goes in) screw directly into the manifold. the orfice is in the manifold whereas the orfice is in the brass body that screws into the manifold on the hwh setup.
the grove that wears in the seal of the plunger is normal over time. if it gets scored from debris is when it can possibly leak by. of course there are many other reasons that the suspension can leak down or go up when it should not. these are just one of the reasons. these kinds of valves are normally done in completely clean and dry systems and meant for zillions of actuations. of course our systems are not that clean with moisture and sometimes debris of rust running through them. that is the culprit.
that kit that i got from valid is pictured below. it has a new stem, the one oring it uses, the plunger and a spring and the nut to hold the coil on.
i have done many of the kits for hwh setups and the need for the stem that screws in the manifold has only come up a few times when someone damaged it taking it out.
the measurements on the plunger are within tenths of a millimeter. the valid coil is 14watts and the hwh coil is 9 watts, so the springs that i have for the hwh kits i am suggesting to not use since i am not sure of their spring strength in the valid setup. the original valid springs should really be fine. it is just the wear on the seat of the plunger that we get concerned about.
if you have had them apart, the is way more slop in the plunger inside the stem than the minute difference in the dimensions.
if you look at the valid plunger and the one that i have the only real difference is how they insert the seal. there has to be an air escape hole to put the seal in. on mine it is a tiny hole on the side in the groove. on the valid there is a large hole the length of the plunger coming out the bottom. the valid seal is red, mine is blue
so my kit for valid use would include 6 plungers, 6 orings, and the spanner wrench to take them out of the 6 pack manifold.
until my costs go up, that would be 125 dollars including usps shipping in the usa. that would do one six pack. i charge more for the hwh kits as it has springs and more o rings.
i know some have bought other plungers that dont fit and removed the seal and re inserted it in the valid plunger. i am sure that is just fine as well but i have not done it. it is probably cheaper as well.
if you look at the hwh plunger thread, you can see one of our gurus was here at my home and he installed the plungers that i have in his front six pack and has been traveling for a while with no issues. that thread is many years old. i have had zero issues with any of the parts over that time. including guys from the foreforum. they have a longer thread on this using my parts for hwh systems.
as always when working on the six packs, block up the coach so it wont come down on you. (especially the front since it is behind the drivers headlight behind the bumper.)
my pictures are of used plungers. the new ones dont have any wear in them.
if you are interested, please email me at [email protected] feel free to contact me if you have questions. i am more than glad to give you my phone number, just not here. if you dont feel comfortable doing this, then don't i am just trying to help out.
i am not a business, and started doing these to help out a few buddies. the foretravel gang grabbed ahold along with our newell friends. i order these in fairly small batches and just post here on gurus and the foreforum when i have them.
tom
I ordered from Valid the 6 pack valve rebuild kit (6x1053). that was earlier 2024 and it was 55 dollars for a single valve plus 40 dollars shipping from canada. i dont know what it costs today. that was after i had helped a few valid newell folks work on their 6 packs and i saw that the guts were essentially the same.
on the hwh systems, the stem screws into a brass or aluminum body that then screws into the manifold. the valid setup has the stem (that the plunger goes in) screw directly into the manifold. the orfice is in the manifold whereas the orfice is in the brass body that screws into the manifold on the hwh setup.
the grove that wears in the seal of the plunger is normal over time. if it gets scored from debris is when it can possibly leak by. of course there are many other reasons that the suspension can leak down or go up when it should not. these are just one of the reasons. these kinds of valves are normally done in completely clean and dry systems and meant for zillions of actuations. of course our systems are not that clean with moisture and sometimes debris of rust running through them. that is the culprit.
that kit that i got from valid is pictured below. it has a new stem, the one oring it uses, the plunger and a spring and the nut to hold the coil on.
i have done many of the kits for hwh setups and the need for the stem that screws in the manifold has only come up a few times when someone damaged it taking it out.
the measurements on the plunger are within tenths of a millimeter. the valid coil is 14watts and the hwh coil is 9 watts, so the springs that i have for the hwh kits i am suggesting to not use since i am not sure of their spring strength in the valid setup. the original valid springs should really be fine. it is just the wear on the seat of the plunger that we get concerned about.
if you have had them apart, the is way more slop in the plunger inside the stem than the minute difference in the dimensions.
if you look at the valid plunger and the one that i have the only real difference is how they insert the seal. there has to be an air escape hole to put the seal in. on mine it is a tiny hole on the side in the groove. on the valid there is a large hole the length of the plunger coming out the bottom. the valid seal is red, mine is blue
so my kit for valid use would include 6 plungers, 6 orings, and the spanner wrench to take them out of the 6 pack manifold.
until my costs go up, that would be 125 dollars including usps shipping in the usa. that would do one six pack. i charge more for the hwh kits as it has springs and more o rings.
i know some have bought other plungers that dont fit and removed the seal and re inserted it in the valid plunger. i am sure that is just fine as well but i have not done it. it is probably cheaper as well.
if you look at the hwh plunger thread, you can see one of our gurus was here at my home and he installed the plungers that i have in his front six pack and has been traveling for a while with no issues. that thread is many years old. i have had zero issues with any of the parts over that time. including guys from the foreforum. they have a longer thread on this using my parts for hwh systems.
as always when working on the six packs, block up the coach so it wont come down on you. (especially the front since it is behind the drivers headlight behind the bumper.)
my pictures are of used plungers. the new ones dont have any wear in them.
if you are interested, please email me at [email protected] feel free to contact me if you have questions. i am more than glad to give you my phone number, just not here. if you dont feel comfortable doing this, then don't i am just trying to help out.
i am not a business, and started doing these to help out a few buddies. the foretravel gang grabbed ahold along with our newell friends. i order these in fairly small batches and just post here on gurus and the foreforum when i have them.
tom
2002 45'8" Newell Coach 608 Series 60 DDEC4/Allison World 6 Speed HD4000MH