I am debating on replacing the wet tank as the labor to remove it is far more than the front tanks were. Space is tighter back there. I have been looking for a 9" diameter by 28" wide 6 port tank. I am finding similar tanks but they have mounting ears on the sides. Those are right around $3-400. Has anyone replaced there's and care to share a part number that I can substitute with? If not, I will just try to recycle what I have.
I got around to working on the bus yesterday. When I lost my favorite and most loving bird, I was not myself and had no motivation to do anything. I am still getting over her loss. Either way, I got under the bus and started cracking loose the fittings. It was a method of contortionism around the tag axle and the driveshaft. I did get the tank out and ordered what I think may work from FleetPride. I could have my original cleaned and powder coated but since it is in a tough to get at area without a pit, I felt it was better to replace.
On a final note, I am debating on replacing the air valve mounted up high. I believe it is a Bendix R14. If anyone has any suggestions or just to leave it alone, I am all ears. It is working fine but it is 31 years old.
Replace the valve. If the plastic spool in the center of the pic fails you will not build ANY air pressure. I saw this happen with Chappel Jordan’s coach once. I took a bit of a shortcut with mine, and simply replaced the spool piece.
If you go that route, circlip pliers will remove the snap ring and the spool comes right out.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home )
Thanks guys. I was hoping to hear you all say, "Leave it alone, it's fine"! Of course, getting all those air lines off will push me to replace them. I removed the tag axle brake chambers to get replacements along with their respective hoses. I've gotta say that Newell used some really good components and hoses. They are dated from 1991 and are in very good pliable/service condition still.
Wet tank is in. Replacement was a bit longer and fit just right. I notched a couple of excess air bag perch steel corners to ensure vibrations would not slowly knick the tank. There was about 1/4" space and now there is 1/2". The new tank provided side entry bungs instead of the top making leak repairs much easier. I am in the process of replacing the air brake hoses as they are original. While in there, the tag axle brake chambers were easy enough to replace for good measure. So far so good. I wanted to add that I did install a new auto drain valve with a heater element which I will wire to a switch in the engine compartment panel board. There is also a manual drain valve that I located near the air dryer with a vent to the exterior.
I wrapped up the tank installation to include a thermostatically controlled heater on the auto drain. This required some new wiring which I ran to the engine compartment with a dedicated on/off switch to keep it off when not needed preventing undue electrical drain. There is also a manual drain tapped into the auto drain located also in the engine compartment.
I had bought it a while ago. Thinking around 3 years ago. Possibly from Find it parts.com? It is a standard unit and in this case made by Haldex. Mine had a 3/8 NPT thread that I had to reduce to 1/4 for the tank. It came with a pull cable for the manual drain port which I removed and installed a remote line.
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